
The  dinner was 
served up in the great hall, where the squire always held his Christmas 
banquet. A blazing, crackling fire of logs had been heaped on to warm 
the spacious apartment, and the flame went sparkling and wreathing up 
the wide-mouthed chimney. The great picture of the crusader and his 
white horse had been profusely decorated with greens for the occasion; 
and holly and ivy had likewise been wreathed round the helmet and 
weapons on the opposite wall, which I understood were the arms of the 
same warrior. I must own, by-the-bye, I had strong doubts about the 
authenticity of the painting and armour as having belonged to the 
crusader, they certainly having the stamp of more recent days; but I was
 told that the painting had been so considered time out of mind; and 
that, as to the armour, it had been found in a lumber room, and elevated
 to its present situation by the squire, who at once determined it to be
 the armour of the family hero; and as he was absolute authority on all 
such subjects in his own household, the matter had passed into current 
acceptation. A sideboard was set out just under this chivalric trophy, 
on which was a display of plate that might have vied (at least in 
variety) with Belshazzar’s parade of the vessels of the temple: - 
“flagons, cans, cups, beakers, goblets, basins, and ewers”; the gorgeous
 utensils of good companionship that had gradually accumulated through 
many generations of jovial housekeepers. Before these stood the two Yule
 candles, beaming like two stars of the first magnitude; other lights 
were distributed in branches, and the whole array glittered like a 
firmament of silver.
We were ushered into
 this banqueting scene with the sound of minstrelsy, the old harper 
being seated on a stool beside the fireplace, and twanging his 
instrument with a vast deal more power than melody. Never did Christmas 
board display a more goodly and gracious assemblage of countenances; 
those who were not handsome were, at least, happy; and happiness is a 
rare improver of your hard-favoured visage. I always consider an old 
English family as well worth studying as a collection of Holbein’s 
portraits or Albert Dürer’s prints. There is much antiquarian lore to be
 acquired; much knowledge of the physiognomies of former times. Perhaps 
it may be from having continually before their eyes those rows of old 
family portraits with which the mansions of this country are stocked; 
certain it is, that the quaint features of antiquity are often most 
faithfully perpetuated in these ancient lines; and I have traced an old 
family nose through a whole picture-gallery, legitimately handed down 
from generation to generation, almost from the time of the Conquest. 
Something of the kind was to be observed in the worthy company around 
me. Many of their faces had evidently originated in a gothic age, and 
been merely copied by succeeding generations; and there was one little 
girl in particular, of staid demeanour, with a high Roman nose, and an 
antique vinegar aspect, who was a great favourite of the squire’s, 
being, as he said, a Bracebridge all over, and the very counterpart of 
one of his ancestors who figured in the court of Henry VIII.
The parson said 
grace, which was not a short, familiar one, such as is commonly 
addressed to the Deity in these uncere monious days; but a long, 
courtly, well-worded one of the ancient school. There was now a pause, 
as if something was expected; when suddenly the butler entered the hall 
with some degree of bustle: he was attended by a servant on each side 
with a large wax-light, and bore a silver dish, on which was an enormous
 pig’s head, decorated with rosemary, with a lemon in its mouth, which 
was placed with great formality at the head of the table. The moment 
this pageant made its appearance, the harper struck up a flourish; at 
the conclusion of which the young Oxonian, on receiving a hint from the 
squire, gave, with an air of the most comic gravity, an old carol, the 
first verse of which was as follows:
Caput apri defero,
Reddens laudes Domino.
The boar’s head in hand bring I,
With garlands gay and rosemary.
I pray you all synge merily
Qui estis in convivio.
Though prepared to 
witness many of these little eccentricities, from being apprised of the 
peculiar hobby of mine host; yet, I confess, the parade with which so 
odd a dish was introduced somewhat perplexed me, until I gathered from 
the conversation of the squire and the parson, that it was meant to 
represent the bringing in of the boar’s head; a dish formerly served up 
with much ceremony and the sound of minstrelsy and song, at great 
tables, on Christmas day. “I like the old custom,” said the squire, “not
 merely because it is stately and pleasing in itself, but because it was
 observed at the college at Oxford at which I was educated. When I hear 
the old song chanted, it brings to mind the time when I was young and 
gamesome and the noble old college hall and my fellow students loitering
 about in their black gowns; many of whom, poor lads, are now in their 
graves!”
The parson, however,
 whose mind was not haunted by such associations, and who was always 
more taken up with the text than the sentiment, objected to the 
Oxonian’s version of the carol, which, he affirmed, was different from 
that sung at college. He went on, with the dry perseverance of a 
commentator, to give the college reading, accompanied by sundry 
annotations; addressing himself at first to the company at large; but 
finding their attention gradually diverted to other talk and other 
objects, he lowered his tone as his number of auditors diminished, until
 he concluded his remarks in an under voice to a fat-headed old 
gentleman next him, who was silently engaged in the discussion of a huge
 plateful of turkey.
The table was 
literally loaded with good cheer, and presented an epitome of country 
abundance, in this season of overflowing larders. A distinguished post 
was allotted to “ancient sirloin,” as mine host termed it; being, as he 
added, “the stand ard of old English hospitality, and a joint of goodly 
presence, and full of expectation.” There were several dishes quaintly 
decorated, and which had evidently something traditional in their 
embellishments; but about which, as I did not like to appear 
over-curious, I asked no questions.
I could not, 
however, but notice a pie, magnificently decorated with peacock’s 
feathers, in imitation of the tail of that bird, which overshadowed a 
considerable tract of the table. This, the squire confessed, with some 
little hesitation, was a pheasant pie, though a peacock pie was 
certainly the most authentical; but there had been such a mortality 
among the peacocks this season, that he could not prevail upon himself 
to have one killed.
It would be tedious,
 perhaps, to my wiser readers, who may not have that foolish fondness 
for odd and obsolete things, to which I am a little given, were I to 
mention the other makeshifts of this worthy old humorist, by which he 
was endeavouring to follow up, though at humble distance, the quaint 
customs of antiquity. I was pleased, however, to see the respect shown 
to his whims by his children and relatives; who, indeed, entered readily
 into the full spirit of them, and seemed all well versed in their 
parts; having doubtless been present at many a rehearsal. I was amused, 
too, at the air of profound gravity with which the butler and other 
servants executed the duties assigned them, however eccentric. They had 
an old-fashioned look; having, for the most part, been brought up in the
 household, and grown into keeping with the antiquated mansion, and the 
humours of its lord; and most probably looked upon all his whimsical 
regulations as the established laws of honourable housekeeping.
When the cloth was 
removed, the butler brought in a huge silver vessel of rare and curious 
workmanship, which he placed before the squire. Its appearance was 
hailed with acclamation; being the Wassail Bowl, so renowned in 
Christmas festivity. The contents had been prepared by the squire 
himself; for it was a beverage in the skilful mixture of which he 
particularly prided himself; alleging that it was too abstruse and 
complex for the comprehension of an ordinary servant. It was a potation,
 indeed, that might well make the heart of a toper leap within him; 
being composed of the richest and raciest wines, highly spiced and 
sweetened, with roasted apples bobbing about the surface.
The old gentleman’s 
whole countenance beamed with a serene look of indwelling delight, as he
 stirred this mighty bowl. Having raised it to his lips, with a hearty 
wish of a merry Christmas to all present, he sent it brimming round the 
board, for every one to follow his example, according to the primitive 
style; pronouncing it “the ancient fountain of good feeling, where all 
hearts met together.”
There was much 
laughing and rallying as the honest emblem of Christmas joviality 
circulated, and was kissed rather coyly by the ladies. When it reached 
Master Simon, he raised it in both hands, and with the air of a boon 
companion struck up an old Wassail chanson:
The brown bowle,
The merry brown bowle,
As it goes round-about-a,
Fill
Still,
Let the world say what it will,
And drink your fill all out-a.
The deep canne,
The merry deep canne,
As thou dost freely quaff-a,
Sing
Fling,
Be as merry as a king,
And sound a lusty laugh-a.
Much of the 
conversation during dinner turned upon family topics, to which I was a 
stranger. There was, however, a great deal of rallying of Master Simon 
about some gay widow, with whom he was accused of having a flirtation. 
This attack was commenced by the ladies; but it was continued throughout
 the dinner by the fat-headed old gentleman next the parson, with the 
persevering assiduity of a slow hound; being one of those long-winded 
jokers, who, though rather dull at starting game, are unrivalled for 
their talent in hunting it down. At every pause in the general 
conversation, he renewed his bantering in pretty much the same terms; 
winking hard at me with both eyes, whenever he gave Master Simon what he
 considered a home thrust. The latter, indeed, seemed fond of being 
teased on the subject, as old bachelors are apt to be; and he took 
occasion to inform me, in an under tone, that the lady in question was a
 prodigiously fine woman, and drove her own curricle.
The dinner-time 
passed away in this flow of innocent hilarity; and, though the old hall 
may have resounded in its time with many a scene of broader rout and 
revel, yet I doubt whether it ever witnessed more honest and genuine 
enjoyment. How easy it is for one benevolent being to diffuse pleasure 
around him; and how truly is a kind heart a fountain of gladness, making
 everything in its vicinity to freshen into smiles ! The joyous 
disposition of the worthy squire was perfectly contagious; he was happy 
himself, and disposed to make all the world happy; and the little 
eccentricities of his humour did but season, in a manner, the sweetness 
of his philanthropy.
When the ladies had 
retired, the conversation, as usual, became still more animated; many 
good things were broached which had been thought of during dinner, but 
which would not exactly do for a lady’s ear; and though I cannot 
positively affirm that there was much wit uttered, yet I have certainly 
heard many contests of rare wit produce much less laughter. Wit, after 
all, is a mighty, tart, pungent, ingredient, and much too acid for some 
stomachs; but honest good humour is the oil and wine of a merry meeting,
 and there is no jovial companionship equal to that where the jokes are 
rather small, and the laughter abundant.
The squire told 
several long stories of early college pranks and adventures, in some of 
which the parson had been a sharer; though in looking at the latter, it 
required some effort of imagination to figure such a little dark anatomy
 of a man into the perpetrator of a madcap gambol. Indeed, the two 
college chums presented pictures of what men may be made by their 
different lots in life. The squire had left the university to live 
lustily on his parental domains, in the vigorous enjoyment of prosperity
 and sunshine, and had flourished on to a hearty and florid old age; 
whilst the poor parson, on the contrary, had dried and withered away, 
among dusty tomes, in the silence and shadows of his study. Still there 
seemed to be a spark of almost extinguished fire, feebly glimmering in 
the bottom of his soul; and as the squire hinted at a sly story of the 
parson and a pretty milkmaid, whom they once met on the banks of the 
Isis, the old gentleman made an “alphabet of faces,” which, as far as I 
could decipher his physiognomy, I verily believe was indicative of 
laughter; indeed, I have rarely met with an old gentleman that took 
absolute offence at the imputed gallantries of his youth.
I found the tide of 
wine and wassail fast gaining on the dry land of sober judgment. The 
company grew merrier and louder as their jokes grew duller. Master Simon
 was in as chirping a humour as a grasshopper filled with dew; his old 
songs grew of a warmer complexion, and he began to talk maudlin about 
the widow. He even gave a long song about the wooing of a widow, which 
he informed me he had gathered from an excellent black letter work, 
entitled Cupid’s Solicitor for Love, containing store of good advice for
 bachelors, and which he promised to lend me; the first verse was to 
this effect:
He that will woo a widow must not dally,
He must make hay while the sun doth shine;
He must not stand with her - shall I, shall I ?
But boldly say, Widow, thou must be mine.
This song inspired 
the fat-headed old gentleman, who made several attempts to tell a rather
 broad story out of Joe Miller, that was pat to the purpose; but he 
always stuck in the middle, everybody recollecting the latter part 
excepting himself. The parson, too, began to show the effects of good 
cheer, having gradually settled down into a doze, and his wig sitting 
most suspiciously on one side. Just at this juncture we were summoned to
 the drawing-room, and I suspect, at the private instigation of mine 
host, whose joviality seemed always tempered with a proper love of 
decorum.
After the 
dinner-table was removed, the hall was given up to the younger members 
of the family, who, prompted to all kind of noisy mirth by the Oxonian 
and Master Simon, made its old walls ring with their merriment, as they 
played at romping games. I delight in witnessing the gambols of 
children, and particularly at this happy holiday season, and could not 
help stealing out of the drawing-room on hearing one of their peals of 
laughter. I found them at the game of blind-man’s-buff. Master Simon, 
who was the leader of their revels, and seemed on all occasions to 
fulfil the office of that ancient potentate, the Lord of Misrule, was 
blinded in the midst of the hall. The little beings were as busy about 
him as the mock fairies about Falstaff; pinching him, plucking at the 
skirts of his coat, and tickling him with straws. One fine blue-eyed 
girl of about thirteen, with her flaxen hair all in beautiful confusion,
 her frolic face in a glow, her frock half torn off her shoulders, a 
complete picture of a romp, was the chief tormentor; and, from the 
slyness with which Master Simon avoided the smaller game, and hemmed 
this wild little nymph in corners, and obliged her to jump shrieking 
over chairs, I suspected the rogue of being not a whit more blinded than
 was convenient.
When I returned to 
the drawing-room, I found the company seated round the fire listening to
 the parson, who was deeply ensconced in a high-backed oaken chair, the 
work of some cunning artificer of yore, which had been brought from the 
library for his particular accommodation. From this venerable piece of 
furniture, with which his shadowy figure and dark weazen face so 
admirably accorded, he was dealing out strange accounts of the popular 
superstitions and legends of the surrounding country, with which he had 
become acquainted in the course of his antiquarian researches. I am half
 inclined to think that the old gentleman was himself somewhat tinctured
 with superstition, as men are very apt to be who live a recluse and 
studious life in a sequestered part of the country, and pore over 
black-letter tracts, so often filled with the marvellous and 
supernatural. He gave us several anecdotes of the fancies of the 
neighbouring peasantry, concerning the effigy of the crusader, which lay
 on the tomb by the church altar. As it was the only monument of the 
kind in that part of the country it had always been regarded with 
feelings of superstition by the good wives of the village. It was said 
to get up from the tomb and walk the rounds of the churchyard in stormy 
nights, particularly when it thundered; and one old woman, whose cottage
 bordered on the churchyard, had seen it through the windows of the 
church, when the moon shone, slowly pacing up and down the aisles. It 
was the belief that some wrong had been left unredressed by the 
deceased, or some treasure hidden, which kept the spirit in a state of 
trouble and restlessness. Some talked of gold and jewels buried in the 
tomb, over which the spectre kept watch; and there was a story current 
of a sexton in old times who endeavoured to break his way to the coffin 
at night, but, just as he reached it, received a violent blow from the 
marble hand of the effigy, which stretched him senseless on the 
pavement. These tales were often laughed at by some of the sturdier 
among the rustics, yet when night came on, there were many of the 
stoutest unbelievers that were shy of venturing alone in the footpath 
that led across the churchyard.
From these and other
 anecdotes that followed, the crusader appeared to be the favourite hero
 of ghost stories throughout the vicinity. His picture which hung up in 
the hall, was thought by the servants to have something supernatural 
about it; for they remarked that, in whatever part of the hall you went,
 the eyes of the warrior were still fixed on you. The old porter’s wife,
 too, at the lodge, who had been born and brought up in the family, and 
was a great gossip among the maid-servants, affirmed that in her young 
days she had often heard say, that on Midsummer eve, when it was well 
known all kinds of ghosts, goblins, and fairies become visible and walk 
abroad, the crusader used to mount his horse, come down from his 
picture, ride about the house, down the avenue, and so to the church to 
visit the tomb; on which occasion the church door most civilly swung 
open of itself; not that he needed it; for he rode through closed gates 
and even stone walls, and had been seen by one of the dairymaids to pass
 between two bars of the great park gate, making himself as thin as a 
sheet of paper.
All these 
superstitions I found had been very much countenanced by the squire, 
who, though not superstitious himself, was very fond of seeing others 
so. He listened to every goblin tale of the neighbouring gossips with 
infinite gravity, and held the porter’s wife in high favour on account 
of her talent for the marvellous. He was himself a great reader of old 
legends and romances, and often lamented that he could not believe in 
them; for a superstitious person, he thought, must live in a kind of 
fairy land.
Whilst we were all 
attention to the parson’s stories, our ears were suddenly assailed by a 
burst of heterogeneous sounds from the hall, in which were mingled 
something like the clang of rude minstrelsy, with the uproar of many 
small voices and girlish laughter. The door suddenly flew open, and a 
train came trooping into the room, that might almost have been mistaken 
for the breaking-up of the court of Fairy. That indefatigable spirit, 
Master Simon, in the faithful discharge of his duties as Lord of 
Misrule, had conceived the idea of a Christmas mummery or masking; and 
having called in to his assistance the Oxonian and the young officer, 
who were equally ripe for anything that should occasion romping and 
merriment, they had carried it into instant effect. The old housekeeper 
had been consulted; the antique clothes-presses and wardrobes rummaged, 
and made to yield up the relics of finery that had not seen the light 
for several generations; the younger part of the company had been 
privately convened from the parlour and hall, and the whole had been 
bedizened out, into a burlesque imitation of an antique mask.
Master Simon led the
 van, as “Ancient Christmas,” quaintly apparelled in a ruff, a short 
cloak, which had very much the aspect of one of the old housekeeper’s 
petticoats, and a hat that might have served for a village steeple, and 
must indubitably have figured in the days of the Covenanters. From under
 this his nose curved boldly forth, flushed with a frostbitten bloom, 
that seemed the very trophy of a December blast. He was accompanied by 
the blue-eyed romp, dished up as “Dame Mince Pie,” in the venerable 
magnificence of a faded brocade, long stomacher, peaked hat, and 
high-heeled shoes. The young officer appeared as Robin Hood, in a 
sporting dress of Kendal green, and a foraging cap with a gold tassel.
The costume, to be 
sure, did not bear testimony to deep research, and there was an evident 
eye to the picturesque, natural to a young gallant in the presence of 
his mistress. The fair Julia hung on his arm in a pretty rustic dress, 
as “Maid Marian.” The rest of the train had been metamorphosed in 
various ways; the girls trussed up in the finery of the ancient belles 
of the Bracebridge line, and the striplings bewhiskered with burnt cork,
 and gravely clad in broad skirts, hanging sleeves, and full-bottomed 
wigs, to represent the character of Roast Beef, Plum Pudding, and other 
worthies celebrated in ancient maskings. The whole was under the control
 of the Oxonian, in the appropriate character of Misrule; and I observed
 that he exercised rather a mischievous sway with his wand over the 
smaller personages of the pageant.
The irruption of 
this motley crew, with beat of drum, according to ancient custom, was 
the consummation of uproar and merriment. Master Simon covered himself 
with glory by the stateliness with which, as Ancient Christmas, he 
walked a minuet with the peerless, though giggling, Dame Mince Pie. It 
was followed by a dance of all the characters, which, from its medley of
 costumes, seemed as though the old family portraits had skipped down 
from their frames to join in the sport. Different centuries were 
figuring at cross hands and right and left; the dark ages were cutting 
pirouettes and rigadoons; and the days of Queen Bess jiggling merrily 
down the middle, through a line of succeeding generations.
The worthy squire 
contemplated these fantastic sports, and this resurrection of his old 
wardrobe, with the simple relish of childish delight. He stood chuckling
 and rubbing his hands, and scarcely hearing a word the parson said, 
notwithstanding that the latter was discoursing most authentically on 
the ancient and stately dance at the Paon, or peacock, from which he 
conceived the minuet to be derived. For my part I was in a continual 
excitement, from the varied scenes of whim and innocent gaiety passing 
before me. It was inspiring to me to see wild-eyed frolic and 
warm-hearted hospitality breaking out from among the chills and glooms 
of winter, and old age throwing off his apathy, and catching once more 
the freshness of youthful enjoyment. I felt also an interest in the 
scene, from the consideration that these fleeting customs were posting 
fast into oblivion, and that this was, perhaps, the only family in 
England in which the whole of them were still punctiliously observed. 
There was a quaintness, too, mingled with all this revelry, that gave it
 a peculiar zest: it was suited to the time and place; and as the old 
manor-house almost reeled with mirth and wassail, it seemed echoing back
 the joviality of long departed years.
But enough of 
Christmas and its gambols; it is time for me to pause in this garrulity.
 Methinks I hear the questions asked by my grave readers, “To what 
purpose is all this how is the world to be made wiser by this talk ?” 
Alas ! is there not wisdom enough extant for the instruction of the 
world ? And if not, are there not thousands of abler pens labouring for 
its improvement ! It is so much pleasanter to please than to instruct, 
to play the companion rather than the preceptor.
What, after all, is 
the mite of wisdom that I could throw into the mass of knowledge; or how
 am I sure that my sagest deductions may be safe guides for the opinion 
of others? But in writing to amuse, if I fail, the only evil is in my 
own disappointment. If, however, I can by any lucky chance, in these 
days of evil, rub out one wrinkle from the brow of care, or beguile the 
heavy heart of one moment of sorrow; if I can now and then penetrate 
through the gathering film of misanthropy, prompt a benevolent view of 
human nature, and make my reader more in good humour with his 
fellow-beings and himself, surely, surely, I shall not then have written
 entirely in vain.

 
 















